Hello There! I have continued to progress with the Waterloo building. The previous part is here. Now, I can describe adding and weathering the roof on the extension, weathering the window and door frames and applying a rust finish to the bars on the windows and door hinges.
This is a picture of a roof on a building at a previous game at New Buckenham Historical Wargamers. At this point I had not decided what finish I wanted to aim for.
I reached a decision when I drove over to a wargames friends new house, after he had recently moved. I drove through a part of a VERY rural Suffolk.
On the way I saw a pantile roof on an old building and it was covered in moss. I though that during the Napoleonic period people would not be bothered about removing this and moss would be a lot more prevalent than now considering the less polluted environment
To start off with I used some pantile roof sheets from the Wills Scenics range of plastic materials.
The above is the roof for the main building. The roof was self colour. However it did not take paint well. I wanted to add different shades of tiles to the roof. I glued two sheets together to make the correct size for one side of the building. Above is the original colour on the left, enamel white undercoat in the middle and the repainted, (Vallejo 929 Light Brown), on the right.
The newly painted sheet on the right also had a slightly grainy finish.
I added some slightly different shades to the individual roof tiles. Unfortunately this does not show up well on this photograph.
I then washed the roof in Army Painter Quick Shade Strong tone.
When dry, I added a wash of AK interactive Slimy Grime Dark mixed with Woodland Scenics fine turf. The colour of the turf does not matter as the AK interactive product will colour it.
Then added small portions of the mix to the troughs of the roof to represent moss clumps. After this has dried I washed the roof in a 50:50 mix of PVA and water to hold the moss on the roof.
The clumps were painted 872 Chocolate Brown. When dry the top surface was painted 922 Intermediate green.
Next I painted the woodwork on the windows, doors, window shutters and barge boards.
I copied the system for painting worn old timber from Emmanuel Nouaillier. In the June 2008 edition of Continental Modeller he used a mixture of Humbrol enamel paints. (Matt numbers 27, 28, 98, 119 and 147). Using enamels come with the usual odours, especially from white spirit, when used as a thinner, and in my case the resulting headache.
I thought that it would be possible to use Vallejo acrylics. I found equivalent colours in 859, Basalt Grey, 875, Beige Brown, 841, Burnt Umber and 992, Neutral Grey. Thinning with water worked just as well.
First you clean the plasticard. Add a wood grain to it by rubbing the face of the strips with a suede brush, or for a deeper grain a wire brush. I make the grain deeper by scoring it with a scalpel with a no. 11 blade. The previous fine grain from the brushing guides the scalpel point so it does not meander all over the card. Remove the swarf from the plasticard. Make the frame, or in the case above, the window shutters. Glue them together with 'liquid glue for plastic' by Revell. Allow to dry. If you do get finger prints on the scored plastic, do not worry. Leave it to dry and rescore later.
Paint the whole item in enamel white and allow to dry.
The idea of painting is to wash the colours over the plasticard card and merge the colours together. You can try to get different shade on individual planks. Do not worry about the planks being too light or dark. Try to leave a hint of the various colours from the Vallejo colours listed above.
After the wood effect has dried, I washed in a thin coat of 950 black.
As the doors were treated the same as above, the door hinges were painted in 981 Orange Brown. This is the base of the rust finish.
I masked the rest of the door off.
I then added a coat of pigment fixer on the bear hinges and added a covering of AK dark rust AK2042.
Before adding a coat of more pigment fixer to the surface of the pigment, I gently brushed away the excess pigment. I then dropped a further layer of pigment fixer and allow to dry before adding more pigment fixer.
After removing the masking tape I ended up with this effect. Any excess pigment that found its way under the masking tape can be removed using white spirit on a paintbrush and washing it away.
As you may see in the above photographs I have added 'glass' to the windows. I used 'Leaded Windows, Diamond Pattern' from Scale Model Scenery. Another supplier to the model train world which can be very helpful.
Last I have added the fir 'La Belle Alliance' sign. This is made from foamcore. After cutting to size I covered it in a layer of AK Terrains Dry Ground, AK8015. I let that set and painted 820 off white.
Next I shall add the timber boards to each end of the building and the main roof.
No comments:
Post a Comment